Rigger: Bert, model: Bep,
photo's: pluu, text:
our article on safety
and our disclaimer
You are responsible for your own actions.
Requirements: Rope, lots
of rope (say three 10 meter pieces).
The "Takate-Kote" is one
of the most widely used harnesses. It has many advantages: it looks
great, is sturdy, pretty quick to tie, and, when tied well, is a
suitable bondage for use in many bondage positions (amongst others some
suspensions). For some people, however,
this tie is less suitable. To tie a Takate-Kote, you must be able to
tie the wrists of the bottom behind the back in the classic u-position
(with the fore-arms over each other, so the wrists can be tied togheter
without putting too much strain on them).
But some people just can't get their arms behind their back that far.
That can be the case, for instance, with some of the bigger
bottoms, less flexible people, or men with a broad chest or big biceps
For these bottoms, we designed this adaption. Because a harness should
be sturdy, we don't recommend this adaption for people who cán
get their arms behind their back far enough. In that case, a "regular"
Takate-Kote or Tasuki
will be more suitable. N.B. We've created this
adaption ourselves not so long ago. We haven't tried it out in all
possible bondage positions. Although we expect it to be a good
alternative in all cases, we cannot be completely sure. Pressure and
tension might in some positions be somewhat different than with a
regular Takate-Kote or Tasuki.
|ATTENTION! This harness
uses wraps that pass over the upper arms. This is a vulnerable place of
the body. Several nerves are close to the surface in the upper arm. One
spot that we have noticed often to cause problems, is the spot marked
by the red arrow in the picture on the left, at the end of the
uppermost muscle. As muscles vary from one person to the next, this
spot is not in the same place for everybody, but it can be found often
because there is a little dent in the upper arm. Other spots can cause
problems too. If the bottoms fingers start tingling or go numb, this
might well be caused by the wraps over the arms. Shift them a little,
and see if the tingling stops or sensation returns. If not, then untie
(Picture on the left from:
Gray's Anatomy of the Human body, 1918, Copyright expired. Taken from: wikipedia).
Step 1: The wrists
Start with a single-limb wrist
around one of the wrists (see our wrist tie tutorial). Make sure the
knot is placed at the thumb side of the wrist (see picture 1). Pull the
wrist up as far as is still comfortable. Pass the rope over the
opposite shoulder (the left shoulder if you started with the right
wrist). Cross the chest.
Pass the rope to the back again, and pass it under the forearm, giving
the arm some additional support. Go around the rope crossing the
shoulder, and, if necessary, adjust the height of the wrist a little.
Tie off (additional pictures
here). The arm now rests in something like a reversed sling. Let
the loose end rest for now.
Repeat this procedure with the other wrist.
Step 2: De bands
Take one of the loose ends hanging from the wrists. Pass it over the
opposite upper arm. Wrap it around the chest, passing it above the
breasts, and to back again. Then twist the rope around itself and
adjust tension a little. Don't pull it too tight now, we will adjust
the tension further later on by cinching (see step 3).
Now tie off.
Repeat this procedure with the loose end hanging from the other wrist.
This rope too must be passed above the breasts, just like the first
rope. Make sure both wrists end up at the same height.
It's unlikely you have enough rope left to create more wraps around the
body, so attach a new rope, at the centre, around the whole band
(around both the wraps created with the first and the second rope).
This is shown in picture 19 and 20.
Pass the newly attached rope over the upper arm to the front, pass it
below the breasts and to the back again. Go around itself and adjust
the tension a little. Make sure place where the rope goes around itself
ends up in the middle of the back: this where we will tie off later on.
Now pass the rope to the front again, in the opposite direction over
the upper arm, just below the previous wrap. Pass it below the breasts
again, and to the back.
Pull the rope through the little loop (the one we've just
created, see the arrow in picture 26) and tie off. A practical way to
tie off here is by pulling the rope in bight under both wraps (27) and
then pulling the loose end through that loop (28). Pull tight and
there's a nice knot.
Now we are ready to cinch.
This prevents the bands slipping too much. After cinching, the upper
band shouldn't be able to slip over the shoulder and dangerously end up
in the neck. If the loose ends are long enough, you can use these,
otherwise you attach another rope. In this example we use the ends that
remain after tying the second band. Another option might be using the
ends that still hang loose at the wrists (in that case, a cinch
tecnique with doubled rope might be more suitable: we're planning on
doing a separate tutorial for this). Separate the ends of the doubled
rope you want to use (29). You're now using a single rope. Work the
rope to the front, in between the body and the arm, under the lower
band (30). Now pull the rope over the upper band.
Pass the rope to the back
again. Again pass under the lower band (32-33). Repeat the whole
procedure with the other end of the rope at the other side of the body.
Now pull the ends together snugly. This pulls the bands together a
Now tie off the ends you used
to cinch. As in this example we have two single loose ends, you can tie
them off to each other, for instance using a square knot.
Now neatly work away all remaining loose ends (the ropes at the wrists
and the ones that remain after the cinching) - a separate tutorial on
how to work away loose ends will
follow later. Picture 37 now shows the result from the back.
And this is the front...
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